Tuesday, August 08, 2006

peaches in the summertime, apples in the fall, if i can't have you all the time i won't have none at all

tastes like... CANADA! but also tastes like...INDIA? tastes like home and strangeness, not sure which is which.

riding through heaven on buses from hell. don't be afraid cuz you're already dead! even the angels do switchbacks in garwhal.

999 sikh men and me. how do old sikh men still manage to look dignified while riding garishly decorated ponies, have their pants tucked into their socks and are wearing showercaps over their turbans and ponchos the colours of easter eggs? i think it's cuz they carry swords. this was my company most of the way up a mountain. finally we parted ways, them to go to their pilgrimage sight and bathe in a glacial lake, me to run around like julie andrews at the start of sound of music. or so i had envisioned. not so.

a valley of flowers that floats on the mist, disappears and reappears at will. at one moment you're held captive by sheer mountain faces, the next you're floating in ether. a single rare blue poppy that you'd miss if you blinked. i didn't blink. a place so indescribably beautiful that it's almost a bit sinister. this is the kind of place that fairy tales warn us about. watch where you step, little girl. feelings of intense desolation, loneliness and then the sudden hot prickly sensation that something is watching you... eerie and enchanting.

no one told me that there would be fields of 2-3 m tall wild cannabis plants. it's just weird. it's like in south india where you see wild peacocks all over the place and your my mind says, 'hey! that aint right!' it's still totally illegal though. my question is this: you're making a centrepiece for the dining room table and include some of the local greenery. now, is that possession or is that a lovely bouquet? tough call.

a Polish mystic who can control the weather with his homemade dijjeridoos. sure, why not?

spent a day in joshimath shitting, reading the bible (...and bathuel begat mizrat who begat jazheel who begat...) and making crafts out of my belongings. it was a surprisingly good day. i finally got to use my $30 no-poo medicine.

living in a cloud. cold and wet right through you and out the other side. coughing up thin little wormies of mucous along my way. vultures on the ground, stretching out their loooong black fingers... badrinath, the northern compass point of india's sacred geography. i had already been to the southern point at rameshwaram. next time in india i'm going to the eastern and western points.

and away away and away. i wanted to stay longer, trek more. i wanted to see were Ganga first hit the earth (cushioned by shiva's dreadlocks)- seemingly so close to badrinath. 20 km as the crow flies, 18 hours as the bus drives... and there's something strange in them thar hills. i was constantly jumping, thinking i saw things, heard things... i can't say what it was, there was nothing overtly strange, and yet the mountains there were so damn spooky. i spent an entire week with a severe case of the heebie-jeebies and that's enough for now.

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