Thursday, May 29, 2008

tank of nectar

delhi--> amritsar

i am now at the golden temple for my third visit. in total i have spent a week of my life living in this place, spaced out over 3 years or so. this time i was struck at my good fortune for this grace. for many people, a pilgrimage here may be the greatest event of their life. tears on an old man's face. of course many of them live here and visit everyday. but when they cross the threshold and drop down on their knees, foreheads to the beautiful marble, both are the same.

this place is like a giant organism with human beings as the blood pumping through the veins. the coordination, the massive movements (bigger than any wagner could conceive of), and all so quiet and modestly done. from the crowd control in the temple to the man handing out spoons in the darbar (community kitchen) to the leaders chanting from the guru grant sahib it is all a beautiful dance with thousands of partners.

then you go upstairs into the sikh museum and learn about all the blood that was shed to preserve this peace. from decaptitaed generals who kept fighting, garlands made out of mutilated babies being hung on their parents necks and war after war after war... peace and beauty do not always come easily, especially in human affairs. this place too has been plagued by corruption, defeat, though it seems inconceivable.

it eases my heart to be here. it has been hard for me, it still is hard for me, everything that has happened. i take refuge at the feet of the guru. for the first time i have done sewa (service) for this temple, an option i never even knew about in my former visits. i washed enough dishes to make my hands almost bleed. elbow to elbow with devotees, getting repeatedly hugged by some weird little sikh kid whose embraces covered me in soap and water. if only my mind was as easy to wash as those plates!

i am next headed back into the mystic land of kashmir to perform a yantra to vaishno devi. o how time is running short...

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